Portugal long has been a “go to” source of fine value wines … and it still is. Predominantly red wines (vinho tinto) but some notable white wines (vinho branco), predominantly from native grapes, generally full flavored and well structured.
The Douro Valley, stretching east from the coastal city of Porto, is considered one of the most scenic regions in the world. And it has achieved international praise for its remarkable invention — port. But its table wines also need to be on your shopping list.
From its Quinta do Vesúvio, the Symington family, a fifth- generation port producer, offers several fine table wines. Comboio do Vesúvio (2019, $22) is a new addition to the line, unoaked to underscore its youthful, bright, fresh red fruits, herbs and woodsy notes.
Prats & Symington is a 25-year partnership between the Symington and Prats (former owner of Chateau Cos d’Estournel in Bordeaux) families. The wines are made from one of the Douro’s greatest estate vineyards, Quinta de Roriz, which dates from 1565, and the deep valley microclimate that is Quinta da Perdiz.
Post Scriptum (2021, $28) is the “second wine” from the flagship wine Chryseia, designed for earlier consumption. Well-structured and expressive, it offers juicy currant and cherry, herb and tea accents, and fine tannins. Prazo de Roriz (2021, $18) sports fresh, fruity red berries and easy drinking.
Casa Ferreirinha, whose property dates to 1751, is associated with the Ferreira Port house but today is known as a leader in Douro table wines. It is best known for making the rare and prized Barca Velha (only 19 vintages since 1952).
But its everyday red wines are very good — and more available. The 2019 Callabriga ($35) presents rich dark fruit, earthy notes, good concentration, and silky tannins. The 2018 Vinha Grande ($22) is elegant, with fresh red fruits and light spice.
While the Douro has received the most market attention, the wines of the Alentejo (al-en-tey-zhu) have asserted themselves recently. The region is a major producer of wine corks and houses UNESCO World Heritage sites. Vineyards have been present there for over 3,000 years. The region also has a history as a leader in sustainability.
The Quinta da Fonte Souto estate is the first foray of the Symington family outside of the Douro. Its 2019 Tinto ($26) is lively, aromatic, with elegant black fruits and fine texture. The 2021 Branco ($26) shows bright citrus and apricot, with a lush texture from barrel fermentation.
Herdade do Esporão is the largest family-owned winery and vineyard in the Alentejo and among the largest organic wineries in the world. Many of its wines also are vegan. This includes the sweet berry, lightly spicy 2021 Reserva Tinto ($23) and vibrant, peachy 2022 Branco ($23).
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